How To Make A Stencil with a Cricut using a wooden pallet sign as an example.
The files we used are below.
H - https://design.cricut.com/#/design/95758896
ome - https://design.cricut.com/#/design/75827821
Cricut Maker Bundle - https://amzn.to/2LJITzB

Step 1 - Using Cricut Design Space open the "H" file.   Click 'Make It' in the upper right corner.  

Step 2:  Select Vinyl for the stencil material.  (We used Cricut Adhesive Vinyl, however you can use Cricut or any other stencil vinyl as well.)  

Step 3:  Load your mat within the guard rails and press the up/down load arrow.

Step 4:  Press the Flashing Go Button on your Cricut.

Step 5:  Repeat steps 1 - 4 using the  "it's good to be...ome" cutting file.

Step 6:  Weed the stencil by peeling away the inside of the image to be painted. 

 

Step 1:  Cut the 1x4x36 using the miter saw.  Attach 1x2x12's onto the back of the sign using wood glue and 1 1/4" brad nails.

Step 2:  Give the boards a rough sanding using 80 grit sandpaper to keep the rustic look.

Step 3:  Stain the pallet sign.  We used Varathane Stain in  Briarsmoke.

 

Step 1:  Apply the transfer tape over stencil to make it easier to transfer the vinyl to the pallet board. 

Step 2:  Peel the vinyl stencil from the backing and apply to the pallet sign. 

Step 3:  Paint the stencil using Ivory Chalk paint.   Keep the brush relatively dry so it is less likely for the paint to bleed under the stencil. 

Step 4:  Let paint stencil dry 2 minutes then remove.  If the paint dries too much, it may peel up with the stencil so it's best to remove the stencil while the paint is still mostly wet. 

And, that's it!  All finished.   As I mentioned in the video, I would probably put the "it's good to be" above the seam between the boards on the next one.

This week we borrowed some plans from our friend Brad over at Fix This Build That!  We're building an Industrial Side Table to finish our mini Family Room series.  This side table has a clear finished top and 2x2's that looks like metal!   Watch the video above to see how we made ours and some challenges we encountered along the way!   

Step 1: 
Cut 4 top panels from the 2x6's to 22”.  Drill pocket holes for 2-1/2” pocket hole screws and attach the boards together to form the top.   We used 2 - 2x12 boards for our top panels.  

Step 2: 
Cut 4 top base rails and 4 bottom base rails to 19” using the 2x2's.  Drill 2 pocket holes on each end of one face to accept 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 3 & 4: 
Drill 1/4“ countersink holes 1/4“ deep on the opposite side from pocket holes on the 4 top base rails. Holes should be 5” from each end.  Drill 1/8"  pilot hole inside the 1/4" pilot hole to prevent splitting when using the pocket hole screws. 

Step 5: 
​Cut 4 legs using the 2x2's to 23-1/2”. Using 2-1/2” pocket holes screws attach 2 legs to a top and bottom base rail to make a side assembly. Pocket holes should be facing outward. Repeat this assembly to make 2 side assemblies.

Step 6: 
Use 2 top base rails and 2 bottom base rails  to connect the side assemblies from Step 5 using 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. 

Step 7: 
​ Sand and finish the base and top before final assembly. 

Step 8: 
Attach the top to the base using 2-1/2” pocket hole screws through the 8 holes in the top base rails .

And there you have it, our version of Fix This Build That's Industrial Side Table!

​This week the girls took over the channel to make a rustic vintage looking Wooden American Flag Wall Art piece. This was a REALLY easy project.  
Material List:
4 - 1X4s @ 8'
1 - 1X2  @ 3'
Red, White and Blue Paint
Star Stencil or just draw them

Cut List:
7 - 12" 1X2s
7 - 20" 1X2s
6 - 32" 1X2s
3 tack strips

Paint the 7 12" boards blue
Paint 4 of the 12" boards red
Paint 3 of the 12" boards white
Paint 3 of the 32" boards red
Paint 3 of the 32" boards white

Place them face down, glue and nail the tack strips to the back.

Flip it over and paint the white stars, we used a stencil.

Run a dry stain brush of the edges and cracks to give it the vintage aged look.  then, run some sand paper over some areas to thin out the paint and let some of the board just barely show through to make it rustic.  Sand and stain until you get the look you want.

Done!  Easy!

We've been looking for a side chair for our family room.  I've been searching for over a year now.  Did you know they are kind of expensive?!   Everything that seemed close to what I wanted was $800+!   Here are some reference pieces: Franklin Chair or the Emmerson Swivel Chair  or lastly the Edmonton Accent Chair.  So as we often do these days, we decided to go in search of some plans to build our own!  Thanks again to Shanty-2-Chic for the plans to build this little beauty!  Now we didn't add a swivel or use reclaimed wood, but then again, we only spent $50 on lumber for this chair!  The cushions were extra and can be found here: 

​Cut List:  ( Cuts should be made as you assemble to ensure the best fit!)

Step 1:  ​Cut the side pieces for the arms.  2 - 2x4's cut at 31".  Cut the top support using a 2x4 at 29 1/2".   Drill 1 1/2" pocket holes at the top of the side boards to attach to the top support. ​ Attach using 2 1/2" pocket hole screws.

Step 2:  Cut the side apron using the 2x6 at 26 1/2".  Drill 1 1/2" pocket holes and attach using 2 1/2" pocket hole screws.  The apron should be set 5" from the bottom and inset 3/4" .

Step 3: Cut the apron cleats using the 1x2 to size and attach to the inside of the aprons with glue and 1 1/4" screws.  The angles on this board are" 5 degrees and in the front will sit 3/4" from the top and the back will be 7/16" from the bottom.  REMEMBER:  when laying the arms side by side, these will be angled in opposite directions so when the arms are standing facing each other, the cleats slant downward to the back.  (Some of us need that booty room!)

Step 4:  Cut the side trim cleats to size using the 1x2 .  Drill a 3/4" pocket hole into each end, attach using wood glue and 1 1/4" pocket hole screws.  

Step 5: Cut the side slats to size using the 1x4's.  Attach them to the inside of the side cleats using wood glue and 1 1/4" brad nails.  Start at the top and work your way down. 

Step 6: Cut the front and back aprons to size using the 2x6 and drill 1 1/2" pocket holes into each end.  Attach the aprons to the arms with wood glue and 2 1/2" pocket hold screws.

Step 7:  Cut the top support for the back using a 2x4. Drill 1 1/2" pocket holes into each end.  Attach it to the top of the side arms using wood glue and 2 1/2" pocket hole screws.

Step 8:  Cut the seat slats to length using 1x4 common boards.  Attach the seat slats to the apron cleats using 1 1/4" brad nails.  Install the front and back boards first, evenly space the remaining boards 

Step 9: Cut the back slats to length using the 1x4 common boards.  Attach these to the inside trim cleat using wood glue and 1 1/4" brad nails.  These should be installed starting at the top and working your way down.

Step 10: Cut the trim pieces to length using the 1x2's.   These angles are a bit tricky and from our experience the angle should be measured once the side arms are complete.  Here's the cutting guide for the trim pieces.

Now all it needs is to be sanded and stained!

Cushions can be found here.

And that's it!  Not too difficult for a beautifully affordable accent Club Chair!

This week we've started a series for our family room!  We've started with adding these beautiful floating shelves to one empty wall!  We borrowed plans from our friends at Shanty-2-Chic for this build.   These were quick and easy!

Step 1:  Assemble the Cleat
​We assembled the wall cleat to mount the floating shelf.  Cut the 2x4 pieces to length. Drill 1-½" pocket holes into the ends of the cleat braces and attach with wood glue and 2-½" pocket screws into the wall cleat. Outer braces are cut to 10" and are flush with the edges of the wall cleat. Center the middle brace and attach with 2-½" pocket screws as well.  

Step 2: Assemble the Shelf
​​First cut your plywood top and bottom to length. Then your 1x6 sides to length to match the width of the plywood. Making sure the top and bottom edges and the front and back edges are flush, attach with wood glue and 1-¼" brad nails. Cut your 1x6 front to length so that it is flush with the outside edges of the sides. Making sure it is flush with the top and bottom attach with wood glue and 1-¼" brad nails.

Step 3:  Install the Shelves
This floating shelf is long enough to install so that you can drive 3" Spax screws into to studs since studs are primarily 16" on center. Hold your cleat assembly at your desired height and using a level make sure your cleat is level. Drive your 3" Spax screws into and through the cleat assembly into the studs. 

And that's it!  Pretty simple build and installation.

I love this book pages wall art project!  Just as a disclaimer, I didn't ruin a perfectly good book, this book was water damaged so I found what I think is a pretty good use for it.  (secret fact, it was New Moon from the Twilight series)  

Materials & Supplies: 
1 - 1x16x24  board
4 -  1/2x1x24 furring strips
1 - 1/2" wood screw
Foam Heart 
Ivory Chalk Paint
Java Chalk Paint
Foam Paint Brush
2 1/8" Ivory Decorative Trim
120 Grit Sandpaper
Hot Glue Gun
Book Pages

Step 1:  Paint the Board
For this step you'll first coat the board with the Java Chalk Paint and let dry for approximately 30min.  Then you'll coat over with the Ivory Chalk Paint and let dry for 30 min.  

Step 2: Distress the Board
Sand the board using the 120 grit sandpaper, giving it the distressed look!

Step 3:  Paint the Stencil
We used the Cricut to cut the Love stencil.  And the Java chalk paint to fill it in. 

Step 4:  Assemble the Book Page Form
​This step might cause some warm fingers!   Tear the page in half, and fold into 4ths but don't crease the folds, only the corner.  Glue the corner of the page onto the foam heart.  You'll have to hold the corner down for a few seconds until it cools a little.  The hot glue WILL burn your fingers a little if you touch it!   Continue working all the way around the top and sides of the heart.

Step 5:  Attach to the Board
Using approximately 30" of the lace, loop it through the heart and attach it to the back of the board using a 1/2" wood screw.  

Step 6:  Install the Frame
Using the 1/2 x 1 " furring strips, cut two at 24" for the sides and two at 17" for the tops and bottoms.  Paint with the Java Chalk Paint.  Install with wood glue and finishing nails.  We used a finish nailer, but the finish nails can be installed with a hammer.

That's it!  All finished.  I think it turned out beautifully!

​The girls took over the channel for their Mother's Day episode. They put together a nice looking Mothers Day Easy Wood and Glass Bottle Centerpiece and they were able to stay within their allowance budget.
They modified these plans: ​https://www.shanty-2-chic.com/2014/04/bottle-vase-centerpiece.html